Narayan,
or Vishnu, is the preserver of creation to Hindus. His temple near
Changu village is often described as the most ancient temple
in the
Kathmandu Valley. A fifth century
stone inscription, the oldest to be
discovered in Nepal, is located in the temple compound and it tells of
the victorious King Mandev. The temple now covers sixteen hundred years
of Nepalese art history. The temple, built around the third century, is
decorated by some of the best samples of stone, wood, and metal craft
in the Valley. In the words of one tourist guide, "When you look upon
Changu Narayan, you observe the complete cultural development of the
Valley."
On the struts of the two-tiered Changu Narayan Temple, are the ten
incarnations in which Narayan destroyed evil-doers. A sixth-century
stone statue shows the cosmic form of Vishnu, while another statue
recalls his dwarf incarnation when he crushed the evil king Bali.
Vishnu as Narsingha disemboweling a demon is particularly stunning. The
western bronze doors sparkle in the evening sunlight, dragons decorate
the bells, and handsome devas stare from the walls. Garuda, half man
and half bird, is the steed of Vishnu, and his life-sized statue kneels
before the temple. The favourite of many tourists is the statue of
Vishnu sitting astride his steed.
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